Installation of the 9812 series Presloped Fiberglass Trench System is achieved by following these basic steps.

Tools and supplies needed:
#5 rebar (5/8" dia.) 4 pcs. per Channel (by others)
Fiberglass repair kit - 8 oz. or 32 oz.
Adjustable wrench
Expanded polystyrene locks for internal bracing
Rags, sandpaper
Plywood (or similar) covers, 10" wide


1. Set the 9' or 3' frame on saw horses upside down and assemble the channel to the frame, making sure to line up the holes in the channel with the holes in the frame. Also make sure the male end of the channel is flush with the end of the frame.

2.  Insert the supplied plastic ratchet fasteners through the holes in the frame from the inside and then through the holes in the channel. This fastens the channel to the frame. Use sandpaper and sand outside surface of the male (deep) end of the channel and the inside surface of the female (shallow) end of the channel. This step must be done before applying sealant to the channel sections.

3. Place the outlet (deepest) channel first. Attach the outlet to the stub-up pipe as required and align the channel to the string line. Drive the rebar through each of the four brackets coming off the frame into the subsoil (8 inches minimum).

4. Adjust the frame height by tightening the set screw bolts onto the rebar.

5.Place next channel into position slightly behind first channel. Set channel into female saddle at the shallow end of the channel placed in step 3. The protruding channel on the first channel will accept and support the male end of the second channel. Make sure the frames of both channels fit flush together. Smooth any sealant that oozes out with a putty knife or similar tool.

6. Fasten the installation brackets to the rebar as in step 4.

7. Repeat steps 3-6 for any remaining channels.

8. Attention: Step 8 must be followed or damage to channels will occur! For channel numbers 801-804 no interior support is required for the channel walls. For channels 805-807 place the supplied expanded polystyrene blocks into the channels with one at each end, one in the middle and one in between for a total of five blocks. For channels 808-812 place the blocks at each end and in between each cross bar for a total of eight blocks. PROPERLY BRACING THE DEEPER CHANNELS DURING CONCRETE PLACEMENT WILL PREVENT BOWING OR COLLAPSE OF THE CHANNELS DUE TO HYDROSTATIC PRESSURE FROM THE CONCRETE. REQUIRED INTERNAL BRACING SHOULD BE VIEWED AS ANY OTHER CONCRETE FORM.

9.  Place plywood or similar covers into the grate area to prevent concrete from entering the channels.

10. Recheck the tightness of all fasteners and reattach any questionable areas.

11. Cut the end caps to length per the markings on the end caps. Sand all matting surfaces prior to applying sealant to the end caps, inlet/outlet caps, and vertical outlets. Attach end caps with required sealant (PJ-Seal-P or Fiberglass resin, for vertical outlet Fiberglass resin). The flanges on the sides of the male end cap or the outlet cap fits over the outside of the channel. The female end cap fits inside the saddle on the end of the channel, but the flange faces away from the end of the channel. Attach the end frame by slipping the groove over the top of the cap.

12. When placing the concrete around the channels, take care to place it equally on both sides of the trench system. Placing too much concrete on one side of the channel may cause the channel to twist.

13. If any concrete enters the channels, let it cure, it will not adhere, and is easily removed after it has cured. However, it is important to minimize the amount of concrete that enters the channel.

14. After concrete has taken it's initial set, remove covers and internal bracing.

15.  Install grates.

Installation Into
Different Materials